Getting to Alto Adige:
The city of Bolzano-Bozen (Italian-German names are written side by side for many roads, towns and heritage sites as tribute to the region’s dual heritage) is your best bet for a central city hub to both the lower and upper Alto Adige valley. Italy’s northernmost wine growing region is readily accessible from many Italian or Austrian cities via car or train – scheduled flights into Bolzano are seasonal and limited due to the varied Alpine weather conditions. However, the airport is a great place to pick up a rental car if you opt to take the train into town. By car Bolzano is a 2-3 hour drive from both Milan and Venice, depending on traffic.
Where to Stay in Alto Adige:
Bolzano serves as a central base for visiting all avenues of Alto Adige’s wine region. The region itself is fairly compact, easily allowing for visits to several wineries in a day. If your lodging preferences lean towards the predictable, then Bolzano's host of hotels will fit the bill. However, if you are up for more authenticity and local adventure, then check out the agritourism options (the Italian is “agriturismo”), where working farms or family vineyards open their doors and welcome visitors to their homes and daily culture, on a somewhat seasonal basis. The accommodations can range from basic beds to fancy B&B styled quarters, or complete apartments depending on whose home you are residing in. Typically, this is a cheaper lodging route than a full-blown hotel stay and often meals are provided family-style. The Bolzano tourist office can help you find available hotel or agritourism rooms.
If you would like to consider a family-run wine estate as your Alto Adige starting point, then Weingut Niklas, would be a choice place to start. Located in Kaltern, about 15 km south of Bolzano, Weingut Niklas offers up-close vineyard beauty, as well as majestic alpine views set in a family-friendly atmosphere, all in close proximity to lake Kaltern (“Caldaro” in Italian). Niklas has a good bit of history with a 700-year old cellar and an impressive array of distinctive Alto Adige wines to boot. As for the estate's wines, they craft several savory, apple-dominated Pinot Biancos (“Weissburgunder” in German), with varying degrees of mouth-watering acidity and well-grounded minerality. Also, the 2007 Sauvignon (Blanc) from 35 year old vines, offers solid acidity, with full-fledged floral aromas and flavor nuances of limestone and green bell pepper alongside a citrus cap.
What to Eat and Drink in Alto Adige
Since wine and food make fast partners, it’s important to get a grip on the culinary scene that a wine is rooted in. A trip to the Alto Adige region would be woefully incomplete, without a platter of speck, a thinly sliced and spiced, smoked ham (somewhat similar to prosciutto) and either a glass of Lagrein or Schiava, the prevailing local red wine varietals. While Alto Adige’s cuisine is dominated by Austrian influences (rye breads, speck garnered dumplings, strudels and sauerkraut), you’ll still find Italy’s food fingerprints in the hallmark pastas underpinning many traditional Austrian flavors. The power of the region’s Pinot Grigios and the crisp character of the Pinot Biancos make for wines of keen interest, especially when paired with local fare. Gewurztraminers, known for their spicy aromas in general, take on a new level of aromatics (and alcohol) in this alpine region, making for an exceptional example of the varietal’s innate spicy character and bold charisma.
What to See and Do in Alto Adige
Alto Adige’s seven wine growing regions are laid out in the rough shape of a “Y” with the upper left fork composed of the Adige Valley and the resort area of Merano. The upper right fork represents the higher elevations and alpine landscape of the Isarco Valley. The “Y’s” midpoint represents Bolzano and the base of the “Y” consists of Alto Adige’s southern regions: Bassa Atesina (home of Tramin, Gewurztraminer’s native soil), Oltradige (key landmark is the lake of Caldaro-Kaltern), and curling off of the northwest fork of the “Y,” like a cursive swirl, is the drier region of Val Venosta, where the vineyards meld into apple orchards and farmland.
Wineries to Visit: Once in Bolzano, you’ll want to grab a rental car for the most efficient option to explore Alto Adige's prized wine country. This majestic, alpine land of wineries and castles hosts its fair share of each. The wine road (“Strada del Vino” or "Weinstrasse" in German) is the main vein for checking out many of Alto Adige’s top wineries. If you plan your time well, you can easily enjoy four or more wineries in a day. Consider starting at the base of the “Y,” with the lower Alto Adige valley and working up. Elena Walch or J. Hofstatter, both located in the town of Tramin (“Termeno” in Italian) bring the town’s hallmark grape, Gewurztraminer, to unbelievable heights in terms of aromatics, intensity and palate profile. These two wine estates are only a stone’s throw away from one another, an undemanding walk through quaint cobblestoned streets allows for a glimpse of the charming village life that cradles both estates.
Wines to try at J. Hofstatter include his Kolbenhof Gewurztraminer and his prestigious Pinot Noir offerings. At Elena Walch, sample “Beyond the Clouds,” a signature Chardonnay blend based on the familiar varietal, but cast in an unfamiliar light amidst several of Alto Adige’s native white grape varietals, resulting in an ultra elegant white wine cuvée. Both Elena Walch and J. Hoftstatter have onsite wine shops and restaurants, for a convenient lunch stop.
